Golf with Shotguns – Part 2: Sporting Clays Variables

Guns, chokes and ammo. Sporting Clays magazine, the official magazine of the National Sporting Clays Association, runs a column on one or more of these topics every issue. I’m going to provide condensed answers as a follow up to in introductory article I wrote titled, “Golf with Shotguns.” I wrote that column for a client and will post it after they run it. This article contains much of the information a new shooter needs to get out and break a few clays.

What to Bring to the Range

Bring your own shotgun, ammunition and eye/ear protection (required). Many clubs sell shotgun ammunition, but supplies and choices may be limited. Some of the fancier or busier clubs also rent shotguns, but if you know anyone who shoots, there’s a good chance they’ll have a back-up gun for you to borrow.

Shotguns

The most popular shotguns for sporting clays are 12 and 20 gauge semi-automatic and over-and-under shotguns, as they allow for an easier second shot (always two shots in clays). Not that you can’t use an 870 pump, but you’d better be fast. Otherwise, expect to miss a few extra birds.

When I started getting shooting clays on a regular basis in June 2009, I switched between my skeet gun (a 1991 Remington 11-87 special skeet) and my pheasant/goose/turkey gun (a Benelli Super Black Eagle 2). After a few thousand round to learn more about my personal preferences, and after trying a few friends’ guns, I invested in a Browning Citori “sporting” model over-and-under (O/U) shotgun that I expect to last for 200,000 rounds…which is good, as I already have 7,000 rounds through it in 10 months.

I am equally successful with all three guns because they have what’s called a “flat” or “point of aim” impact. This means that if you put a dot on a sheet of paper and shoot at it, the pellet pattern will be distributed about evenly — 50% above and 50% below the dot (“50-50”).

Some guns shoot about 55-45 or perhaps a tad higher, which is typical of clays models such as the Citori. I think anything from 60/40 to 50/50 will work just fine. When a clay is in your sweet spot, you can focus like a laser on the clay and see it clearly just above the gun barrel, but you’ll also break it if you cover the bird. This is the kind of room for error you want in a field gun, and clays and skeet were both originally designed to simulate field situations.

Guns specifically designed for trap aren’t ideal because they are designed to shoot high. Trap shooters like to “float” the bird a few inches to two feet above the barrel, which provides a clear picture of a target that always rises. Great for trap, but awkward in field and clays situations where bird presentations vary in the extreme.

Barrel length is entirely a matter of personal preference. In semi-autos, 26 and 28 inch are the most popular. Most O/U barrels range from 28 – 32 inches; 30 seems to be the most popular.

Note that good gun fit is CRUCIAL if you plan to shoot anything more than a few rounds. If the stock is too short or too long, chances are that you won’t obtain a good sight picture and will tend to shoot over or under the bird. If you’re not sure about gun fit, most of the experienced shooters will be happy to provide guidance (as well as let you shoot their gun if you ask politely). No matter what your gun, invest a few bucks in to customize the length. The $10 slip-on recoil pad on my 11-87 work wonders compared to shooting a gun that’s too short!

Choke Selection

Oh the agony of choke choice! Beginning clays shooters have sooooo many other variables to consider that the best advice is to pick ONE choke or choke combination and stick to it. Trust me: you need to concentrate on other things besides changing chokes.

Choke is the degree of constriction applied to the shot pattern. Common chokes, from most “open” for shorter range shooting to “tighter” for longer range shooting are as follows: skeet (SK), improved cylinder (IC), light modified (LM), modified (M), improved modified (IM) and full (F).

Clays expects say this: 25 yards and inside, use skeet. For anything else out to 45 yards, use modified. That’s one too many choices to debate for me. For those starting out, shoot everything with IC until you get more experience.

Ammunition

Another useless agony. First rule: NEVER shoot a higher recoil load than you can handle. It will lead to flinching, and flinching is a very hard habit to break.

Second rule: Pick #7.5 or #8 size shot in a 1 oz. or 1-1/8 oz. load and don’t worry about the details. Many clays shooters favor faster loads (1,200 to 1,300 fps), but some those “crusher” loads kick pretty hard out of a pump or O/U. See rule #1. Unless you need the additional recoil of a “3 dram equivalent” or “heavy target” load to cycle an auto-loader (a characteristic of inertia-driven Benelli guns), stick to target or light target loads (sometimes labeled as “2-3/4 dram equivalent”).

Note that most range rules are as follows: Largest shot size allowed is 7.5. Maximum payload: 1-1/8 oz. No magnum loads, hunting loads or 3-inch shells (except .410). If you bring your own ammo, note that maximum shot size is strictly enforced at most ranges: Not shot larger 7.5 (#7.5 – #9 size only). Maximum payload: 1-1/8 oz. No magnum loads. No hunting loads. No 3-inch shells (except .410).

Summary

For new and average shooters, my best advice is this: find THE ONE gun, choke and load combination with which you can confidently break birds—and stick to it! The best way to improve your score is by planning your next shot and concentrating on the target, not fiddling with or worrying about your equipment.

Bonus Content: Clay Types

We’re moving on to more expert advice here, but I thought the review of clay types would be interesting. I caution beginners not to fiddle with choke and shot combinations. For the record, I shoot IC/IC and a 1 oz. load of number 8s at EVERYTHING on the practice and league range.

Target Type	Width	Height	Advice
Standard	4-1/4”  108-110mm	1 to 1-1/8”	Open chokes and #8 or #9 shot within 30-35 yards for any presentation will work, as standard clays offer a lot of surface area to hit. Tighter chokes and larger shot at 40 yards or beyond, especially if just the edge is visible.
Rocket	4-1/4”  108-110mm	5/8”	Thicker, heavier rockets maintain their velocity longer; missing behind is common. Use larger shot and IC chokes (or tighter at ranges beyond 35 yards) to break this tougher target.
Rabbits	4-1/4”  108-110mm	3/8”	The thick, tough outer rim requires more pellets to break. Use a tighter choke before switching to larger shot. Most people mis-judge the rabbits’ speed and shoot behind it.
Battue or Chandelle	4-1/4”  108-110mm	About 1/4″	These thin birds break easily with #8s at any distance. The hard part is figuring out the proper (both in front of and underneath) as the bird slices and curls downward. Forget about shooting this one on edge; wait until the face presents itself.
Midi	3-1/2” 90mm	3/4”	More aerodynamic, midi clays maintain velocity and flight path better than standard clays. Use tighter chokes and longer distances. If possible, wait until the bird slows down and shoot before it starts dropping much.
Mini	2-3/8” 60mm	3/4″	Use tighter chokes to #8 shot or this tiny bird can slip between cracks in your pattern (or use #9s out to about 30 yards).